16. Tokyo, Japan Guide
City pop and ramen in the land of rising sun ...
It’s been a year since Tokyo and I never got around to putting together that guide that I promised because the task felt so daunting as the list of places to share is ginormous and I just needed the time and space to sit back and go through it all. Well the time has finally come.
We came to Tokyo with an idea of what it would be like, thanks to the endless Instagram posts dedicated to the country, but we tried our best to bring with us a sense of a clean palate to take the city in with. Tokyo was been full of surprises, even more than I expected, and it was one of those cities where I instantly let curiosity take over. It was beautiful, interesting, weird, crazy, calm, and everything in between. And to get to experience this city with my love made me feel so lucky.
I loved walking these Tokyo streets and taking it all in, observing the way of living, getting to know some really awesome locals over delicious food, meeting foreigners at the top a tiny bar and hearing their perspectives on the city in comparison to where they are from. We just jumped right in the best that we could, and really we only skimmed the surface, but we left feeling like we will be back to discover more.
I was surprised by how much I really felt connected to a lot of the things we came across in Japan, like the attention to detail and the artfulness of the process of creating things. The idea of “wabi sabi” feels really stands out here authentically and naturally, as if the way of living is second nature. Of course this is just my perspective as a foreigner being there for two weeks. What I took away with me was that Japan has a lot of things that I think we can embrace more and learn from, and there are also a lot of things that I think Japan would benefit if it worked its way to become a more diverse society integrated even more with foreigners and the rest of the world. I had a desire to learn why at the same time a country can be so technologically advanced and ahead of its time in some ways, yet super old school and adhering to tradition in ways that can seem a bit antiquated in the world today. But exploring this country of contrasts was super interesting. So many questions opened up. So many things to be endlessly curious about. So many contrasts to explore.
What I really enjoyed during this trip were the moments of breaking barriers and getting to connect with locals on things we had in common, and just to appreciate a place for its differences from what we grew up with. Differences are what makes the world complex and difficult, yes, but also beautiful and eye opening and something we should share more with each other to learn and grow from. We will definitely be back in Japan, because aside from all this, the food, the architecture, the art, the nature, the subways which we totally conquered, the balance of calm and chaotic is an entirely different level of awesome. We are completely and absolutely inspired by Japan and hope to be back very, very soon because I’ve realized that it may take me a lifetime to digest this city. My brain was exploding after this trip and I keep becoming more and more curious as someone raised in a culture that feels opposite to Japan in many ways. What I do know is that we all have so many different things to learn about from each other, both the amazing and the uncomfortable, and that we need to keep being open to this to keep growing. All I can say is that Tokyo sure is quite something.
When someone asks me “Which city do you like better, Tokyo or Kyoto?” I can’t answer that because I ended up loving both for different reasons. But I can already see how the old world traditions preserved (Kyoto) intersect with a modern city (Tokyo) and how Japan today balances them both. There was so much that was special about our time in Kyoto … the strong appreciation for antiquity, nature, art and spirituality. I’ll wait to go more into that for the Kyoto Guide :)
Leaving Tokyo was actually quite hard. I felt a bit tear, happy-sad, sort of like the main character in Perfect Days when he was driving to work at the end of the movie. A fluctuation of emotions of getting to experience a place for the first time, feeling so connected and in awe, and then having to leave in the hopes of being reintroduced again to an energy that is so foreign yet so familiar at the same time. Getting shivers thinking about Japan, and so excited for my return!
We had a HUGE list of recommendations from one of Gabi’s Japanese friends who was born and raised in Tokyo, a list that I gathered from Instagram and some great recommendations from our Airbnb hosts. I felt like we did a pretty thorough job of getting a taste of the city for our very first time, even though we for sure know that we didn’t get to see it all. Here are our highlights.
The Neighborhoods
Shinjuku
Home to the biggest railway station of the world, this part of Tokyo really says something. Busy, busy, busy. Our Airbnb was in a more quiet residential neighborhood perfectly nestled in-between Shinjuku and Shibuya, which was great for us to explore while at the same time being able to come back to a more peaceful place at the end of the day. Shinjuku was our favorite place to explore because of all the options it had for food, shopping, people watching and getting to see the public transportation in action. We felt like we were in the middle of it all. I actually preferred the scramble crossing in Shunjuku instead of the one Shibuya. It was a really pretty spectacle to take in. The way this town lights up at night is really beautiful! Also, for experiencing the best of Tokyo’s nightlife, Shinjuku is definitely it. The Yokocho’s (narrow streets packed with izakayas, bars, and eateries tucked away in between busy streets) were always happening, and it was fun popping in and out of random, quirky bars and if we were lucky, strike up a conversation with another tourist or a local. We visited both the famous Omoide Yokocho and Shinjuku Golden-Gai and were impressed with the energy and liveliness. Tokyo really comes to life here and you can tell the people really let go and have fun as the days wind down.
Shibuya
Shibuya is considered the major commercial epicenter of Tokyo. If you love shopping, then you’ll love Shibuya. We didn’t really want to do too much shopping, other than vintage for me and some techie gamer stuff / fountain pens for Gabi, but we did really get a kick out of exploring the huge, multi-level department store ISETAN. They have everything here, it was so amazing! Definitely worth checking out and admiring the beautiful, perfect presentation of the store, in particularly the dessert section and grocery store. We walked away with the most perfect, and expensive, strawberries we’ve ever had. We enjoyed mostly exploring the outside neighborhoods of Shibuya, and finding the hole in the wall local spots in there. Yoyogi Park was also a highlight, and we stumbled upon many of the places from scenes in one of our favorite moves that we watched right before our trip, Perfect Days. This was heartwarming for us and such a treat :)
Shimokitazawa
This neighborhood is for the vintage enthusiast. I’ve never seen a place with more second hand and vintage stores than this place. Many of the places had a very All-American theme I noticed, but there was definitely a mix of everything. It’s also famous for all of its curry houses. We walked here from our Airbnb in just around 30 minutes quite early, had a delicious breakfast and made a few stops at the shops. I came out with an epic blue leather moto jacket and a baby pink silk tie that I continue to wear to death. Gabi got a new hat. I had to be quite selective, as I didn’t bring a second suitcase and still wanted to vintage shop in Kyoto. But we had a lovely morning here.
Akihabara
Akihabara was such a treat for Gabi, and I think this part of of Tokyo really encapsulates the high-tech visual we all have of Tokyo in our heads from their time as the tech epicenter of the world in the 1990s. Tokyo forever will be that Tokyo to me. And you really feel like you are transported there in Akihabara. People going in all directions, multilevel shops that seem like mazes inside, endless neon lights like you cannot even imagine it can give Times Square a run for its money. It really is insane what you can find in all these storefronts and the hundreds of hidden shops within shops. It was like being a kid in a candy shop for lover of vintage video games, anime, VHS and old CDs, old school point and shoot cameras, you name it. It really was a sight to take in. Many rare items, and most in near exquisite condition. It was just a fun environment to be around. Looking down the main street here was a colorful sight of a technicolor city that feels both futuristic and dated at the same time. You have to see it to believe it. Gabi and I had a blast playing some of his vintage video games that he loved as a kid in the retro arcades.
Harajuko
A neighborhood that I only knew about because of reading about and seeing picture of the street style that came out of there. We checked out Takeshita Street briefly to see what it was all about and kind of sort of almost regretted it because of how packed it was, but we continued on haha. It was definitely suited towards a much younger crowd with lots of shops selling colorful knick knacks and lots of sweet treats. We even went into one of those shops were you put in a coin to get a random knick knack in a plastic egg shaped container. Pure fun and kitsch. But what we came to the Harajuko neighborhood for was to eat out a tonkatsu that was supposed to be one of the best in town. The wait was a little long, but it for sure was really incredible tonkatsu! Once again, blown away by the passion that goes into food here. On our way out to the next place, I fell in love with the residential streets away from Takeshita Street, which felt nice and quiet in comparison. I really admired how each building was so unique and the details so subtle but striking. You really have to look closely to notice their specialness. This to me, was what made Tokyo such an eye opening experience. It’s all about slowing down here or else you will miss all the little details.
WHAT WE ATE
7-Eleven (lol)
Where else were we going to have our very first meal of our trip after landing before 6am. 7-Eleven, of course. We had to see what all the hype was about. It lived up to the hype. We stopped by for snacks and maybe one or two early morning breakfasts on the go, as many coffee shops and breakfast spots actually open quiet late in Tokyo (around 10:30/11am). Their selection of sandwiches and onigiri (filled rice balls) was an amazing and cheap way to start off our early mornings before sightseeing. Not to mention, so perfectly stocked and pretty. We definitely had a ball during our regular 7-Eleven pit stops.
Muromachi Sunaba Akasaka
室町砂場 赤坂店
We had a few hours to kill our very first morning in Tokyo as we arrived super early and couldn’t check in yet. We explore by foot around Minato City before making sure we were the very first customers at this traditional soba noodle house, where we got to sit on tatami mats. The owners were very kind, and the presentation was just so lovely and calming. It was almost as if we were in the middle of the countryside, it was so calm. We actually forgot that people slurp their soups here as a sign of respect, but we finally caught on and started slurping our soba noodles, as well. We kept learning new things on this trip, and that was the most fun of all.
Yasubee Shinjuku
つけ麺屋 やすべえ 新宿店
This place was a very last minute place we stumbled upon after seeing how long the wait was at an udon place we had on our list. I’m so glad we ended up here because it was fantastic and our first time having tsukemen-style ramen in the classic counter style setting, where we could watch all our food being prepared from start to finish. This was the first time we had to use the machines at the front to place our order and pay, and we had quite a hard time figuring it out as everything was in Japanese. But we took our chances and ended up each with an amazing bowl of noodle soup.
Yaesu Hatsufuji
やえす 初藤(はつふじ)
I was looking for a place to get an everyday Japanese breakfast and this casual commuter izakaya that is inside Tokyo Station came up for me. It was crazy how cheap this meal was, and so well rounded. My favorite kind of breakfast. Baked salmon, a side of rice, miso soup, seaweed salad, a side of pickled veggies and tea. We came back here for breakfast before taking off for Kyoto.
Tonkatsu Maisen Aoyama
とんかつまい泉 青山本店
This place was recommended to us as one of the best tonkatsu. The batter was perfectly light and flaky, and the meat high quality and cooked to perfection (still tender). Just wow. Amazing service, and I love that they bring you as much rice and salad you want. Japan just does it SO SO RIGHT!
Paddlers Coffee
パドラーズコーヒー
This coffee shop came up on Google maps for me as it was just walking distance from our Airbnb. It reminded me of a cozy upstate cabin, and I loved the sunny outdoor seating area. The carrot cake was divine, top notch coffee, and a super friendly staff. Coffee shop culture in Tokyo is so interesting and cool, and the spaces so created with care. They truly nurture the idea of paying respect to personal space and not being too intrusive. I loved seeing how many people actually take the time to put pen to paper here.
Sushi Rosan
鮨 魯山 新宿店
We wanted to have the best sushi in Tokyo, so we took the recommendation for the best sushi in Tokyo. Hehe. This upscale sushi restaurant in ISETAN department store is so chic. This place is so elegant, that you don’t feel like you are in a department store at all. We sat at the sushi counter and had a wonderful time being blown away with each course of our omakase, which was truly up to the sushi chef. Washed down with some sake, and it was a fun afternoon in Shibuya.
Flipper's Shimokitazawa
下北沢店
This is where we got our early breakfast before spending the rest of the morning vintage shopping. This spot is a chain famous for their soufflés. We shared a few dishes, all hearty and yummy. The soufflé pancakes with the red beans and matcha ice cream on the side was chef’s kiss. I also love the way the Japanese serve toast for breakfast. Cheesy goodness.
Udon Shin
うどん 慎（しん）
This cozy udon spot was recommended to me by a few people saying it was the best udon they’ve ever had, but the first time we swung by the wait was over an hour long so we skipped it. The second time we went was off hours and luckily we were able to get a seat right away and it confirmed the fact that they serve a delicious bowl of piping hot udon noodles (we had the udon noodle soup with beef). We even went again towards the end of our trip for one more bowl (waited 45 minutes). They were out of the beef this time but I was lucky enough to choose an udon that was very similar to a carbonara and I was in shock at how delicious it was. Definitely worth the wait in the cold for.
Kameya Shinjuku Soba
かめや 新宿店
Cheap, quick, high-quality, delicious. Nestled around bars and izakays in Omoide Yokocho, this soba spot was one that I found on Instagram. I was sold on a bowl of soba noddles with all the trimmings for under $5. We actually had early dinner here our first night in Tokyo. We were exploring all day, hit up a cool bar just across the alley and wanted something to eat quick before retiring for the night early. This spot was IT.
Sunday Bake Shop
A cute little bake shop super close to our Airbnb that was just the most adorable and cozy place ever. There was a bit of a wait to sit down inside, but everything they had looked so amazing and freshly made. We felt like we were in someone’s home. So much to look at and admire. Highly recommend this spot.
Gamushara Ramen
生姜醤油専門 我武者羅 幡ヶ谷本店
A ramen recommendation by a born and raised local. I loved that this place did not skimp on anything. It definitely felt like a fully local spot. We went for lunch and got to experience the Japanese working man lunch hour. Efficient, filling, straight-to-the-point, and most importantly delicious. I think this may have been my favorite ramen in Tokyo.
Coco curry chain restaurant
We were strapped for time one day and I was very much in the mood for a curry but it was 11am and not many places were open. So we went for this affordable chain restaurant nearby that we kept seeing all throughout the city. When we travel, we like to throw into the mix some casual, affordable, quick meals. Do what the locals do. I was impressed with this delicious curry with chicken katsu!
Bien-Être Maison
パティスリー ビヤンネートル
A quick pitstop here in Shibuya on a very coooold day. We slipped in because we saw it nearby on our maps. Very good decision on our part. The two desserts we shared were fluffy goodness. I love that Tokyo is full of these places that are very high-quality. It’s hard to NOT get something good in Tokyo when you plan last minute.
Kanda Matsuya soba noodle shop
神田まつや 本店
We literally were crazy for soba this trip! This place was sort of a hidden spot and super local. We waited maybe 10 minutes. It’s pretty spacious inside and felt super traditional as we seemed to be the only foreigners in this bustling spot. It was exactly what I wanted out of my soba that day. I went for a simple one. Savory subtle broth. A good portion of soba. Perfection. By the way, we had no idea about a soba tradition before coming to Japan. Sobayu is a traditional way for soba shops in Japan to reuse the water they use to boil their soba. At the end of your meal, they usually bring out a container of the hot water, which you pour into the soup base for a warm and healthy post-meal drink. So cool!
Kanda Okame soba
神田おかめ
We came here to meet a new friend of ours who is born and raised in Tokyo. She gave me so many great recommendations in Tokyo and Kyoto, and I’m so happy that she brought us to this very hip soba spot. They really did such cool twists on the typical Japanese dishes. The vibe was very cool, young and artistic. Definitely a spot I would never be able to find on my own and felt so lucky to be able to try on our last night in Tokyo!
Bar Albatross
アルバトロス
This was the bar we went to visit on our first night out in Tokyo. Right in the heart of Omoide Yokocho. The bars on this alley are super duper tiny and cozy, but that is why it’s also so fun. I loved how quirky this place was with all the funky decor hanging on the red walls. Everyone was so kind and friendly, and were generous with their sake pours. Wish we had the chance to go back again, but we will our next Tokyo trip!
Some of our other favorite Tokyo sights
Gōtokuji Temple
大谿山 豪徳寺
A morning at Gotokuji Temple, the birthplace of the maneki-neko, or “luck-inviting cat figurine.” The legend states that during the early 17th century, Ii Naotaka (then 2nd lord of the Omi-Hikone Domain at the time) escaped from being caught in a sudden thunderstorm after being invited inside the temple by a cat that lived there and this is what the idea stemmed from. I’ve really been enjoying exploring the different temples like this throughout the city, and taking in their peaceful nature that I hope to bring a bit of home with me.
Kyu Asakura House
旧朝倉家住宅
A morning at the Kyu Asakura House, a century-old two-story wooden Japanese house that is an architectural gem. The majority of the rooms are minimalist tatami mat rooms, which lend to its openness, airiness and the feeling of being a part of the nature. Full of windows and sun exposure from all sides, the house really brings to life the Japanese love for the natural world. The windows are frames, creating portraits of imperfect beauty that is to be admired and not to be intruded upon.
Kokyo Gaien National Garden
We passed by this park on the way to Ginza and had to spend some time on the grounds even though the Tokyo Imperial Palace happened to be closed. We were still able admire the gorgeous grounds full of these beautifully and interestingly shaped trees. There were groups of runners, schoolchildren, tourists and locals commuting by, and a view of the tall buildings in the distance really made me realize how huge Tokyo really is.
Oedo Antique Market
On our very last day we came to this antique market in the heart of Tokyo. It is the largest outdoor antique market in Japan and is open every first and third Sunday of each month. There was soooo much to take in. I could have spent even more hours going through each seller’s stall. This day was quite chilly, but the sky was super blue and the sun was out full force. It was an amazing way to spend our last hours in Tokyo. I did get the chance to get a gorgeous little collection of vintage tea/sake cups and Gabi found a vintage fountain pen and a beautiful old painting. Thank goodness we still had room for a few extra little keepsakes to remember this trip by.
You described, and captured it beautifully!