22. Japan: Kyoto / Uji / Nara Guide
Where the imperfect perfect nature of Japan really shines through.
Putting this guide together was exactly the walk down memory lane that I needed this week to energize me and remind me that spring is around the corner. And it’s giving me the itch to get ready for some travel soon. Not sure where yet, but it’s about time that some plans start to brew. I’m ready once again for that excitement that travel brings me. And I’m excited to finally share this guide to my favorite places from the second part of our Japan trip last year.
Kyoto, Uji and Nara all had such a gorgeous hold on tradition amongst the modern changes of the world. It was really interesting and cool to observe. The imperfect perfect nature of Japan in general really shined through. There were always so many details that my eyes had a hard time looking away from, like a messily array of potted flowers of all colors outside a simple, unassuming home. A bike lazily placed on a corner. An unorganized pile of vintage books upon books that draw you to pick one up and skim its pages even though you have no idea how to read Japanese. A heavily decorated shinto shrine, centuries old, next to a newly opened, minimalist dessert shop. And there was always was such a steady flow to things. How the new and old weaved in and out of life here. I kept wondering, how can this be? What is this feeling that is so unfamiliar yet to satisfying here? That is so quiet but you can’t stop thinking about it. I remember the end of the day, as we were heading back to our hotel, walking past and peeking into small mom and pop shops selling an array of just about anything, like cups and plates and books and fabrics, and everything just laid out so haphazardly yet so meditatively. And we walked towards the horizon where we saw the sun just about to go all the way down, and the sky was dim yet lit by the most watwercolor-esque mixture of tones. Figures stood out in the distance of locals making their ways to and from home for the evening. Men and woman with babies biking while balancing small bags of groceries for dinner. An old couple walking side by side with a bag of used books. A young creative going by lost in the music of his headphones. It was a light and airy feeling. And it all felt how it exactly should be. A dreamlike state that melted into reality. Simple and non frivolous, yet full of imagination that comes to the surface subtly. This is how everything around me felt to me.
We only had two nights at a hotel in Kyoto booked when we arrived in Tokyo, and planned the rest it during our trip. We ended up switching things around to accommodate some last minute plans, found a sweet Airbnb to change up the vibes, took day trip to Uji and tagged on Nara at the end the trip. And it was all so well worth it. Everyone kept telling us that Kyoto was extremely touristic, even more so than Tokyo. But to our surprise, we didn’t feel that it was too overwhelming once we arrived. Our Airbnb was in a very lovely, low key neighborhood away from the touristic action, but was walking distance from everything we wanted to see. The same went for our hotel, which was just a short block away. It was nice to get to experience both a very traditional, local home setting during our stay, as I really wanted a tatami mat / tea room to zen out in. The Airbnb I wanted was only available for two days or else I would have loved to stay longer, but our room at the ANA Hotel Kyoto was super lovely and we got a newly renovated room with a gorgeous view of the city and the mountains in the distance.
We found it super easy to get around Kyoto and walked many places and also utilized the subway, and even the bus sometimes to get to certain shrines. This is a reminder that taxis are quite expensive in Japan, so be prepared to use lots of public transpiration. In regards to the subway, people were so helpful and kind. It made getting around so stress-free.
We balanced out our trip between hitting up a handful of more touristic places, which definitely showed that there is no low season in Kyoto. At least that’s how it felt to us. For January, I was quite surprised to see how big the crowds were in the Geisha district leading up to the large and beautiful shrine. Even Tokyo didn’t feel that crowded, maybe because it’s much larger of a city and much more spread out.
But we really had so much fun gallivanting without too much of a plan around other neighborhoods based on certain shrines, zen gardens, and restaurants and vintage shops that we wanted to check out. And by walking, we discovered a lot that was off of the beaten path that I am so thankful that we found.
And it was such a great idea to last minute make the plan to take a day trip to Uji (recommended to us by a traveler from Singapore that we met in a vintage camera shop in Tokyo). He also talked us into spending a relaxing night in Nara to break up the trip, before one last night in Kyoto before taking the bullet train back to Tokyo for our last two nights in Japan. Both cities felt smaller and more quaint in comparison to Kyoto which was super nice. We even made a new friend from China in Nara who I’m still in contact with today, and hopefully will get the chance to meet again in an upcoming trip to China that I would love to plan.
It’s been a year, and the feeling is still here and I love to relive it through the memories. For those of you visiting this year, I’m super excited for you guys! Hope this guide is something you guys can put to good use!
A Few Nights in Kyoto …
Shijō Bridge
四条大橋
This bridge took us over the Kamo River and over to the more touristic part of Kyoto, towards the Geisha District. Even on a cloudy day, the river and skyline beyond was so beautiful and idyllic. A friendly moodiness of sorts. A view simple and complex. I always love this balance that Japan embodies.
Kiyomizu-dera
清水寺
This iconic Buddhist temple is on Mount Otowa and offers a scenic view of Kyoto from above. We moved through the winding streets of Kyoto on the way here, in awe of how full of tourists the city was. All we saw were heads. But it was well worth the crowds to make it up here. And we had a lot of fun seeing people dressed up in traditional kimonos. It was beautiful!
Teramachi Shopping Street
寺町専門店会商店街
You want it? You’ll find it here. And lots more that you probably wouldn’t expect to find on this shopping street of endless little shops. Little bakeries. Art galleries. Clothing shops. Vintage. I really adored the more messy shops, filled to the brim of vintage books with mismatching covers. So much history and storytelling piled in one place. This street is the epitome of the harmony that makes up Japan; old school, long standing shops alongside more modern ones.
Nishiki Market
錦市場
This market branches of Teramachi. We came quite early, before the crowds, and it was a wonderful way to see the kind of street food that is popular in Kyoto. Lots of different kinds of delicious smells. You can shop for knick knacks, teas, and gifts to take home. And they let you try samples of a lot of the food, which is fun.
Gion and Higashiyama Ward
祇園
These areas are some of the most popular places for tourists to visit. The Geisha district. Filled with closely spaced, traditional style buildings. Many are wooden teahouses houses where geisha reside and perform in traditional style restaurants. Sukiyaki places are common here. Branching off from here and up towards the mountain, you will find tons to look at and explore, like shrines, ceramic shops, stunning zen gardens, and places to do ikebana flower arranging. An old world feel that is preserved in time.
Big Time Kyoto
ビッグタイム 京都
Kyoto is known for having really great vintage! This place was one of my favorite ones to go to, and I really loved their selection of 60s/70s style dresses, jeans, workwear and men’s coats! I ended up snagging an oversized cashmere coat from the men’s section that is still one of my go-tos, but also Gabi loves to wear it.
Daitoku-ji Ryogen-in
龍源院
Serene sub-temple in a sacred Buddhist complex built in 1502 CE, with 5 picturesque gardens. This temple was an absolute dream to come to. We checked out a few of the different zen gardens, each have a small fee you pay to enter. You remove your shoes and then get the chance to enter a place of pure calmness. I’ve never seen a traditional zen garden like this before, and learning about what each element of a zen garden was so interesting. A special place is given to every plant, rock and the sand in an effort to create harmony, tranquility and balance. Rocks symbolize mountains. White gravel and sand represent water. Rooted trees symbolize perseverance against time.
Kinkaku-ji
金閣寺
Historic, tranquil temple with a gold-leaf facade set amid landscaped gardens & a reflecting pond. This temple is covered in gold leafing, which reflected in the pond and glowed in front of its forest-y backdrop. This is definitely an architectural wonder nestled in nature that you must put on your list.
Nishinotōin Shokudō (Maido Ōkini Shokudō)
まいどおおきに食堂 四条西洞院食堂(セルフ食堂)
We are always craving a traditional Japanese breakfast. This one was nice because we got to pick and choose what we wanted to incorporated into our sides of protein. Literally my favorite way to start my day is like this!
Sakuraiya
桜井屋
This place was phenomenal!! We actually stumbled upon it as we walked around looking for lunch after visiting the zen gardens. Kyoto is famous for its tofu shops, so we felt like we had to go to one. The building was very minimalist and old-word, outside of the Kitano Tenmangyu shrine, and serves pots of hot tofu & vegetables with interesting and flavorful sides to pair them with. The presentation was absolutely gorgeous and such a feast for the eyes. It was like artwork! Also, so healthy and nourishing. This was definitely a highlight of our trip!
La Madrague
喫茶 マドラグ
This intimate cafe was just a very short walk from our Airbnb and it ended up being one of my favorite cafes in all of Tokyo. It’s filled with books, movie posters, quirky furniture and had an overall lived in feel. It was like being in someones home. And the food is amazing. The place is famous for its egg sandwich for breakfast, and also has amazing rice dishes for lunch. I give this place A++.
Kyoto Neze
京都 ネーゼ
We ended up here as Gabi had it on his list, after we failed at finding a sukiyaki restaurant that wasn’t full for the night. There’s just something so satisfyingly well done about Italian food made with a Japanese touch. An elevated and cozy restaurant a few floors up of a building that was actually really hard to find, but a waitress from a cafe next door actually took the time to walk us all the way there. We sat at the bar in front of where the kitchen was, and we got to watch all our pastas being made fresh. It was absolutely perfection such a fun way to spend our last rainy night in Kyoto.
Menbaka Fire Ramen
This fun ramen spot was a good old time! They literally light your ramen on fire right before your eyes. The owner/chef was super funny, and he hung up our cellphones to document the whole experience as you lean back and take it all in. Dang this ramen tasted so deliciously smoky. Simple and fiery. And washed down with a cold beer.
Katsukura Tonkatsu Sanjo
名代とんかつ かつくら 三条本店
This place was on our list as one of the best places for tonkatsu in Kyoto. We are endlessly on the hunt for katsu here! The restaurant was beautiful and had low lighting, which I loved. The katsu was lightweight and not too oily, and the quality of the meat was incredible. The whole experience from grinding our own seasoning, to the warming miso texture and taste, and the rice and side salad that they will endlessly refill for you if you want, was top notch. And for the price we paid for what I felt was like a fine dining experience was unbeatable.
Unfortunately I didn’t mark down which izakaya we walked into for this incredible meal we had below. If I do end up finding it, I’ll update here. But what we found I Kyoto is that if you end up walking into a place and aren’t sure about it, take the risk and go in. We were actually a bit intimidated going in here, as the menu on the outside was all hand written in Japanese and we weren’t sure if we’d be able to read it or figure out what to order. We didn’t want to draw attention to ourselves as tourists who had no idea what they were doing. But then we decided to just go for it, and it ended up being such a nice experience. The lady brought us a menu in English and was so welcoming. The food and sake was also delicious. Loved all the mix and match plates and bowls, and we got to choose out our sake cups.
Tofu Cafe Fujino
京とうふ藤野本店
Matcha matcha matcha. Hard not have it in Kyoto. This cute little cafe was one we randomly stopped into during our gallivant after the zen gardens. It’s almost near impossible to find a place that DOESN’T do a good job at making what they serve.
A Day Trip To Uji …
Taihoan
宇治市営茶室 対鳳庵
Upon arrival to Uji we instantly went to the visitor center here and inquired about scheduling a guided tea ceremony, as the town is famous for its production of tea production since the 13th century. Thankfully it was super easy to do so as it was a weekday. We were able to do the ceremony on the spot, and it was such a peaceful and lovely experience. And the tea was amazing! Tea is such a ritual for us at home, so to be able to experience the way they present the tea and consume the tea, in such a thoughtful way, was really special.
Uji Bridge
宇治橋
Uji was so, so picturesque. It was like jumping into an old painting. The sun came out and it was so nice to explore around the river and cross this Uji River bridge that dates back to the 7th century. It was like we stepped back in time. We walked by foot to explore the little neighborhoods on both sides of the river, discovered some hidden shrines and took in as much sun as we could. Lots of benches along the river to sit back and just enjoy taking in the surroundings. Plus, plenty of matcha shops all around to get items to take home.
Nagano
真手打ちそば処 ながの
We had lunch here after exploring some shrines. We were craving some soba noodles and realized that they made matcha soba at many places. This was the first time we had soba dipping style, and we had it with a side of tempura. It was absolutely delicious. Not to mention, very gorgeous to look at. I love it when my food is colorful and nourishing.
Uji Shrine
宇治神社
This shrine is a historic Shinto place of worship featuring a rabbit motif & a statue of Prince Uji no Wakiroko. It was definitely a very popular photo location for the tourists. I can’t imagine what it would be like on a weekend! The grounds are large, and it was perfect for a sunny stroll and to appreciate the details of the shrine from all angles. Attention to detail is so ingrained in Japanese culture, that it’s something you definitely want to take the time to admire everywhere here.
Akamon-chaya
赤門茶屋
Make sure to get your fill of matcha here! We had our tea ceremony, our matcha soba, and of course we wanted our matcha soft serve! Find this and many other treats here. We sat on a bench and enjoyed ours under the sun. And we got some extra sweet snacks to save for the train ride back to Tokyo.
Nakamura Tokichi Byodo-in
中村藤吉平等院店
This cafe was so cute and had a nice view of the river for us to sit and have some downtime at the end of our day before heading back to Kyoto. We had some matcha lattes here and reflected back on our day, and planned what we would get for dinner in Kyoto that night. Matcha matcha matcha was the mindset, and it was so fun to indulge in this. No better place to do it than Uji!
One Night In Nara …
Nara Park
The famous deer park was very fun and enjoyable time indeed. The deer were so cute, even though some of the bigger ones were a little less gentle than most. I tried to stay close to the smaller deer, but once you get those special crackers out, none of them will leave you alone! You end up just embracing the energy here. We had a good time interacting with them, and this was such a sunny, beautifully warm day that felt like the middle of spring.
Wakakusayama Hill
若草山
Our new friend from China that we met in town told us about the top of this hill that is a much better place to go see the deer and get a view of the city. So we all jumped in a taxi and headed up there, and it was the best decision ever. Much less tourists, and a stunning view of Nara. The whole scene was magical, and it felt so warm to be high up and feeling the beams of sun on us. Even though the grass was dryer this time of the year, it still was spectacular. A reminder that the world is so beautiful!
Saryo Zeze
茶寮 世世(さりょう ぜぜ)
We found this upscale teahouse towards the end of the day, as we were just about to head out of the park after hiking down from the top of the mountain. So glad that we did. We ended up being the only two there, as it was nearing closing time, and it made for such a peaceful way to ease into the evening. Such a gorgeous place to lounge with a view of nature around the window. We ordered matcha and coffee, each coming with a dessert of our choice. It was so lovely.
Yugayama Enchi (Old Yamaguchi House Garden)
瑜伽山園地（旧山口氏南都別邸庭園）
This architectural masterpiece has a teahouse attached, and a large grand space to explore. We loved taking in the bamboo forest. It was very peaceful. A perfect place to stop and meditate in quiet for a bit. It started to rain right when we were just finishing up here, which added to the cleansing aura of this place. I can see how many artists and writers have come here for inspiration.
Mizuya Chaya
水谷茶屋
We stopped here for lunch on our way down from the top of the park. A casual and cute soba noodle spot, where you can see deer roaming the grounds around it. They had a bunch of soba options. We came super hungry, so this place was definitely a treat.
Nakatanidou
中谷堂
We passed by here on the way out of Nara Park; our last stop before leaving Nara to go back to Kyoto. This is a well-known confectionary shop that sells traditional Japanese mochi rice cakes. They also have mochi making demonstrations. We couldn’t help by each pick one up. Green tea mochi filled with sweet red bean. Mmmm. So satisfying.
